Stories from the road
Long reads, guides & field notes
Written by the guides who actually live and work here. No press trips, no sponsored content.
Food · Long read
A year of byrek: following one recipe across Albania
Twelve kitchens, twelve slightly different doughs, one argument that never gets resolved: whose byrek is best.
By Marsela Hoxha·11 min read·14 maart 2025
Coast · Guide
When to avoid the Riviera
July and August are not the Albanian Riviera's best months. Here is the honest guide nobody in the tourism industry wants to write.
By Ermal Çela·5 min
Highlands · Narrative
The shepherd's hour
Before sunrise in Theth, when the bells move past the guesthouse window, is when you understand why people have always lived here.
By Ardit Gjoni·8 min
Heritage · Portrait
Berat at dusk: the city of a thousand windows
The Ottoman city on the hill turns gold at five in the afternoon. For about forty minutes, everything about it makes sense.
By Klodiana Marku·6 min